Kasuti Embroidery - Tutorial, Border pattern

This is my very first tutorial on Kasuti.  I have tried my level best to explain the concept of kasuti here.  I am starting with the basic trimmings and patterns to create a border.  The border pattern we are going to create is this:

First of all draw the given pattern in a centimeter graph paper.  A small dash given in the pattern represents one stitch.

 

If you are working on a matty cloth for 1 stitch we need 3 holes i.e) start from one hole and end in the third hole.  The second stitch will start from the third hole and end in the fifth hole and so on.

 

In the graph 1 stitch = o.5cm or 1cm.  You can draw according to your convenience.

 

The first line in the given pattern is single line stitch.  It is also called Double running stitch.  Mark the pattern in the graph as follows:

Start from the point 1(come out of the fabricx at point 1) and insert your needle thru 2.  I will be referring it as

(out thru 1, In thru 2). Then

out thru 3, In thru 4)

out thru 5, In thru 6) and so on.

You will be ending up with (out thru 3, In thru 14)

This will be your forward route.   I have worked on  matty cloth and the result is:

 

Now the reverse route:

 

Out thru 13, In thru 12

out thru 11, In thru 10

Out thru 9, In thru 8

Out thru 7, In thru 6

Out thru 5, In thru 4

Out thru 3, In thru 2.

 

Now the result is

First pattern is over now.  Now the second pattern. Draw the following in a centimeter graph and study the route.    This pattern is known as stepped running stitch.

Start from point 1.
out thru 1, In thru 2(point 3 will be above 2)
out thru 3, In thru 4
out thru 5, In thru 6
(7,8) (9,10) (11,12) (13,14)
This will be your forward route starting from *.

The forward route worked on matty:

 
Now the reverse route
out thru 13, In thru 12
(11, 10) (9,8) (7,6) (5,4) (3,2)

The reverse route worked on matty and the complete pattern.

 
Now the second pattern is over. 

Moving on to the third pattern.  Draw the following in the centimeter graph.  I have taken the first two portions for practice. This pattern is diamond with spokes.

Here I have given only two diamond along with the spokes.  Start from the point 1.
out thru 1, In  thru 2
out thru a, In thru 3
out thru b, In thru 2
out thru b, In thru 3
Now half of the upper portion and lower part of the diamond is completed.

Now,
out thru 4, In thru a
(5,b) (4,b)(5,6)
 Now the upper half portion and lower part is completed in the second diamond.

Likewise continue with the other diamonds also.

The forward route is over.  Now coming to the reverse route.
out thru 5, In thru a
out thru 4, In thru 3
out thru a, In thru 2

The whole pattern is completed.  The result in the matty is here:

 Following the instructions above work the complete graph pattern.  You can draw the pattern in an inch graph and transfer it to the plain fabric and can use it as a border for your dresses.  The completed border is below: