Kutch embroidery is a style of Indian embroidery from the region of Gujarat.
The design consists of continuous diamonds ad squares thus forming beautiful designs. It is done in two steps. The foundation (framing) and the filling (interlacing). All the diamonds or squares should be of even sizes.
If anyone masters the technique for some basic structures, they can create beautiful Kutch embroidery for dresses.
I will be posting the detailed tutorial for some basic structures. Later on we can move on to patterns for dresses. Let me start with the basic diamond structure. The pictures and explanations are given below.
Practice in a cotton fabric with the fabric fixed in an embroidery hoop. Use all six strands in the beginning.
The above diamond shape is the basic shape in kutch work.
Before stitching imagine that the corners of the diamond extends like this.
Start at 1(Bring the needle from under the fabric at 1)
i.e) Out at 1
In at 2
Line a is formed.
Out at 3
In at 4
Before going thru 4 the running thread should pass over line a.
Line b is formed.
Passing the threads over and under the previously formed lines is the technique of kutch work which forms beautifully weaved designs.
Out at 5
In at 6
Before going in at 6 the running thread should pass over the line b. Line c is formed.
Note that now the line b is over line a at one end and under c in the other end.
Out at 7
In at 8
Here the running thread should pass over the line c and go under the line a before going in at 8.
Line d is formed. The line d passes over line c at one end and passes under line a at the other end.
Now notice all the lines. Each line pass over at one and and pass under at the other end.
The foundation is now complete.
This is how it looks at the back.
The next step is to do the interlacing or weaving the foundation.
For the second step bring the thread out at a point near the arrow i.e) between the points 1 and 8.
Imagine there are lines parallel to a,b,c and d inside the diamond.
The explanation here may look complicated but the process is simple if u under stand the concept of over and under.
Pass the needle under a1(Since here it is under the next pass is obviously over)
pass over a.
The running is passing through the lines a and c. So imagine two parallel lines for and c. So the thread should go under the line parallel to a and over the line parallel to c. This part you have to visualize in your mind.
Now pass the needle
under c
You have reached the corner.
Now pass the thread
over c2 (because the previous pass is under)
under d1
Now you can see the line parallel to d is formed and one corner is filled.
Now pass the thread
over d
under the line parallel to d
The running thread passes through lines d and b. So imagine a line parallel to b and the thread should pass over that line.
Now pass the thread under b.
Now the line parallel to b is formed. We have reached the second corner.
Pass over b2
Pass under c1
Second corner is filled.
Pass over c
This line passes through lines c and a. The line parallel to c is already formed. So imagine a line parallel to a.
pass under the line parallel to c and
over the imaginary line parallel to a.
pass under a.
Now the line parallel to b is formed. We have reached the third corner.
Now we will work on the next corner.
Pass over a2
Pass under b1
Third corner is filled.
Pass over line b
Pass under the line parallel to b
Pass over the line parallel to d
Pass under the line d
Now the line parallel to a is formed.
We have the reached the last corner .
Pass over d2.
Finish the filling by going in at the starting point.
Basic kutch diamond is now complete.
I will be back with the next motif next wednesday. On Monday I will be posting a small design you can practice with the single diamonds. Till then, Have a happy time with your needle and thread.
